How can something as simple (and ancient) as facial massage yield such dramatic results, I ask? “Classical facial massage is different from the new approach of fascial facial massage, which I practice,” the board certified structural integration therapist replies. While traditional practices and tools such as gua sha also aim to reduce puffiness by draining the lymphatic system, Anastasia’s practice claims to go further, beyond the skin and down to the superficial and deep fascia – that is the thin, connective tissue layer, which lies underneath the skin to provide structural support and flexibility, allowing for movement and expression.
Anastasia first discovered the importance of fascia after visiting a cosmetologist in her early twenties: “They told me it was time for Botox, and I was like, that’s not a real solution!” This prompted a years-long deep-dive into massage. “It took over four years, it wasn’t like I lifted my eyebrow once and decided to make a TikTok.” Anastasia maintains that she has never had Botox or fillers; instead, she puts any glow down to massage – along with, she adds, laughing: “Make-up, celery juice… being healthy!”
I turn next to Dimple Amani, who offers sculpting facials using a combination of traditional Ayurvedic, gua sha, and Brazilian lymphatic drainage techniques. Last year, I visited Amani’s studio for a facial and was amazed at the results. “During facial massage, techniques such as gentle stroking, kneading and stretching are used to target the facial fascia,” Dimple explains. “By manipulating the fascia, facial massage aims to loosen tightness, improve blood circulation, release tension and promote relaxation. This can potentially improve the appearance of the skin, reduce muscle tension and enhance facial contours.” The risks are minimal too, just avoid excess rubbing and pulling, and speak to a dermatologist ahead of time if you have acne, rosacea or other skin conditions.
So far, so good, but how long do the results last? I tell Anastasia about my treatment with Dimple, noting that results appeared immediately and then faded over the course of a week. She nods. “The key to long-lasting results is consistency. After one year, I personally started noticing a stable result, my eyebrow wouldn’t go down as I was changing the tone and tension in my deep fascia. You can see results of depuffing and slimming in 15 minutes when you’re doing lymphatic drainage, but not tissue repair.” Depending on genetics, existing bone structure and skin health, after three months you can see improvements in your jawline, head position and hair growth, she adds. “You can even realistically place your eyebrow higher, which makes your eyelid look more open. Things like facial asymmetry and deep lines take more time, but you will experience compounding results. If you do one massage you will look good for two hours, but if you do it for three months, it can last for days,” she insists. “Three months won’t change your face, but you will look better.”
Inge Theron is the founder of Facegym and an early pioneer of facial massage in Western beauty. Despite incorporating fascia release into each of her face “workouts”, she is sceptical of the results Anastasia describes. “I cannot believe these results are from exercise alone,” the 48-year-old tells Vogue. “I have hooded eyes and despite regular facial exercise, the results I was achieving prior to my upper eye lift are nowhere near what she is showing.” Dr Sonia Khorana, GP and dermatology expert, agrees: “Facial massage cannot change your bone structure, tighten your skin or replace volume – like plumping up sagging cheeks – as the structure and shape of the face are primarily determined by the underlying bones, fat distribution and skin elasticity, but it can release tension, increase blood circulation and stimulate movement of fluid, which helps contour your face temporarily.”
